Prologue

In the Easter of 2019, we decided to set off for a marathon road run, An Easter in Eastern Europe | A 6000 km Road Trip across Poland, Slovakia, Romania, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Austria from the Netherlands, which was our first marathon road trip across the Eastern European countries before our second road trip A Summer in Eastern Europe | An 8000 km Road Trip across Slovenia, Albania, North Macedonia, Kosovo, Bulgaria, Romania, and Slovakia from the Netherlands in summer 2019. So based on our experience, today I’m going to take you along with me on a ride across the main attractions of Podhale, the Polish highlands. Let the journey begin!

Welcome to Podhale - The Polish Highlands

The Republic of Poland is a Central European nation. The roots of the country go back to the 10th century, leaving behind a thousand-year trail of twists, turns, holocaust tragedies, survival, and resilience. Away from the hustle and bustle of the big cities, the Polish countryside remains largely unspoiled. While vast swathes of the nation are flat, the southern border is lined with the charming Tatra Mountain range that invites you to spend a solitary time hiking through dense forests, wide rivers, and mountain passes. ‘Podhale’ often described as the ‘Polish Highlands,’ literally translates to ‘Under the Mountain Meadows.’ It’s situated in the southernmost province of Lesser Poland province (Małopolska in Polish) at the foothills of the Tatras, a range in the Carpathian mountains with its capital in the Royal city of Krakow.

We began exploring the Polish highlands with a trek in the Chocholowska (pronounced as Hohowovska) Valley, a part of the Tatra Mountain National Park in the Zakopane area roughly 110 km south of Krakow. 16 km of hiking (8 km each way) with my 6-year-old son Ricky was a challenge that we took, and it all felt worth it when we were blessed with a rewarding view of the spring bloom of lush violet Crocus flowers carpeting the landscape at the end of the valley.

Main Attractions of the Polish Highlands, Poland

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Tatra National Park, Zakopane

Tatra National Park is situated in the Tatra Mountains in the province of Lesser Poland (Małopolska area). The Park has its head office in Zakopane, Poland's best-known mountain resort, famous for trekking in the summer and snowboarding in the winter. The Tatra Mountains form a natural border in between Poland to the north and Slovakia to the south. Slovakia produced an adjacent national forest, and UNESCO later designated the combined effort a transboundary biosphere reserve.

Chochołowska Valley, Zakopane

The Chochołowska (pronounced as Hohowowska) Valley, the largest (covering the area of 35 square km) as well as longest (10 km in length) in the Polish Tatra Mountains, lies 110 km south of Krakow and 10 km west of Zakopane. Every year, it attracts thousands of tourists at the end of March, beginning of April when crocuses bloom in the valley, creating beautiful purple carpets. Two parts can be distinguished in the Chocholowska Valley – the lower one, which looks more like a ravine with the so-called ''Gates''. It is also here that the caves can be found; however, they are not open to the public. The other part of the valley was modeled by the glacier; thus, it differs in the landscape features. The richness of the wildlife, the unique beauty of the Chocholowska valley, the presence of rare plant species, the colorful diversity of the surrounding peaks depending on the season, etc., make it a must on the long list of Zakopane attractions.

polish tatra mountain dolina chocholowska valley with crocus flowers bloom and wooden houses during spring easter in zakopane near krakow poland

portrait of lady walking in polish tatra mountain dolina chocholowska valley with crocus flowers bloom and wooden houses during spring easter in zakopane near krakow poland

portrait of man walking in polish tatra mountain dolina chocholowska valley with crocus flowers bloom and wooden houses during spring easter in zakopane near krakow poland

Zalipie

The next attraction in Podhale is Zalipie, also known as the 'Painted Village of Poland', located 110 km east of Krakow. Nearly every bare surface of this small village is decorated with intricate floral motifs, in a tradition that dates back 100 years. Despite its picturesque photo value and relative closeness to one of Poland's most prominent touristic cities, it remains a hidden treasure as not enough information is available on the internet and hence is not invaded by tourists. The practice started in the late 19th century with the women covering dirty surfaces of their houses with white paint and colorful patterns. Their color was made with powdered dye and milk. The patterns later turned into flowers and the practice turned into a tradition. Even during World War II, the practice was alive, and the painters were active. Felicja Curyło was the most famous painter in Zalipie whose house was almost entirely covered with flowers. Even today, the tradition continues to live in Zalipie.

portrait of lady sitting in front of Polish painter Felicja Curyłowa house exterior and interior painted with flowers floral design furnace rooms in zalipie village near krakow poland

The House of Felicja Curyłowa, Zalipie

Felicja Curyłowa (1904 - 1974) was a Polish folk artist and the best-known painter of Zalipie. After her death, her house was opened to the public as a museum. Curyłowa painted every readily available surface in her home and decorated her house with several other ornamental crafts. She was asked to paint the Wierzynek dining establishment's interior in Krakow and the dining room on the MS Batory cruise liner. Her styles were later recreated commercially as designs in China.

Kraków

Finally, we wind up with Kraków, the second largest city of Poland after its capital Warsaw, and the capital of the province of Lesser Poland (Małopolska in Polish). Kraków was the capital of Poland until 1596 and has always been the epicenter of Polish academic, economic and cultural life. After the Nazi invasion during World War II, it became the capital of Germany's General Government. The Nazis forced the Jewish population into a walled zone known as the Kraków Ghetto to be later sent to concentration camps like Auschwitz or Płaszów. While most of the major Polish cities were brought to the ground during the war, Kraków remained almost untouched. Today both the Historic City Centre and the Jewish District are brimming with cafes, shops, and pubs, and the Main Market Square is a medieval icon. Dubbed as one of Europe's most beautiful cities, Kraków’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978.

St. Mary’s Basilica, Kraków

The imposing St. Mary’s Basilica dominates Krakow's old town square. The military of Crimean Khanate (a Turkic state of the Ottoman Empire from 1441 to 1783) conducted slave raids (Tatar raids) in East Slavic territories to capture and export slaves to slave markets in Constantinople or elsewhere in the Middle East. By the 13th century, the original church (built in the 1220s) was in ruins due to these raids. It was later rebuilt in Gothic style on the existing foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th century, the towers took the iconic form they have today, from where that the ‘Hejnał Mariacki,’ the city's famous bugle call, is played every hour that ironically breaks off mid-melody in honor of the mythical trumpeter who was shot in the neck while belatedly warning the city of Mongol invaders.

Saint Mary's basilica in central square of poland showcasing market shops people and birds flying during spring easter in krakow poland

portrait of boy running among pigeons in front of Saint Mary's basilica in central square of poland showcasing market shops people and birds flying during spring easter in krakow poland

Saint Mary's basilica and cloth hall in central square of poland showcasing market shops people and birds flying during spring easter in krakow poland

Kazimierz, Kraków

Kazimierz is a historic district of Kraków. From its creation in the 14th century to the early 19th century, Kazimierz was an independent royal city. For centuries, Kazimierz was a location of coexistence and intermingling of ethnic Polish and Jewish cultures. In 1941, the Nazis forced the Jewish inhabitants of Kazimierz into the Krakow Ghetto. Today, Kazimierz is among Krakow's top travel destinations and an important center of its cultural life.

Judah, Kazimierz, Kraków

This giant mural by Pil Peled, among Israel's most well-known street artists named 'Judah', was developed in July 2013 as part of the Jewish Culture Festival in Kazimierz, the historic Jewish quarter of Krakow. According to the artist, the kid's image represents worry, vulnerability, and the inner child, and the lion represents the Jews' battle to make it through and protect their culture, in addition to the strength to conquer their worries.

judah man with lion head cap street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

Corner of Ulica Nowa and Ulica Józefa, Kazimierz, Kraków

Developed as part of the regional task '100 Murals for Kraków,' this vibrant production has been sprucing up an old townhouse in Kazimierz because of the summertime of 2016.

couple walking in front of corner ulica nowa ulica Jozefa street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

Singing in the Rain, Kazimierz, Kraków

A stencil of the renowned picture of Gene Kelly singin' in the rain ("I'm delighted once again!") has beautified the corner of Ulica Bozego Ciala since the spring of 2014.

singing in the rain street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

Galicia Jewish Museum, Kazimierz, Kraków

The Galicia Jewish Museum held a contest for the design of their outside wall. The winning entry went to Marcin Wierzchowski's giant mural of a Jewish menorah (a candelabrum with 9 branches; utilized throughout the Hanukkah celebration).

galicia jewish museum street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

Plac Bawół 3, Kazimierz, Kraków

This massive mural was developed by artist Broken Fingaz during Kraków's Jewish Culture Celebration of 2014. The mural takes motivation from famous art nouveau age artist Maurice Lilien - a local of Drohobycz (now in Ukraine) and graduate of the Kraków Academy of Fine Arts - and is committed to the memory of the Bosaków household who lived and constructed the building there through the generations for 400 years, prior to moving to Israel after The Second World War.

plac bawol 3 street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

portrait of boy standing wearing hoodie in front of street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

portrait of man wearing brown leather bag standing in front of street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

hillary clinton and donald trump street art graffiti mural kazimierz district historic jewish quarter in krakow poland

Other Attractions in Podhale

Apart from these places, some other attractions in the Polish highlands are the picturesque mountain lake Morskie Oko in the Zakopane area, which we skipped as it was frozen, and the Wieliczka Salt Mine, 15 km south of Krakow that was closed when we traveled during Easter. It is the oldest salt mine globally, housing the world’s biggest underground church, which is made entirely from salt but has numerous steps to climb through dark, claustrophobic tunnels.

Visiting Podhale

Best Time to Visit: Summer (June through August) is the ideal season to visit Podhale because of the pleasant weather that makes it ideal for outdoor pursuits like hiking, mountain biking, and taking in the breathtaking scenery. Summer also brings with it a plethora of cultural events and festivals, offering a chance to sample regional customs and cuisine. But if you want to see Crocus bloom on the Tatra Mountains like us, you need to travel during early spring (end of March to the beginning of April) i.e. around Easter time when we traveled.

Number of Days to Stay: How long you stay in Podhale will depend on your interests and the things you want to do. We suggest staying for at least three to five days in order to really explore the area and take advantage of outdoor activities in the Tatra Mountains. You can walk to high summits during this time, see quaint villages, and fully immerse yourself in the native way of life.

Best Place to Stay: The primary metropolis and well-liked vacation spot in Podhale is Zakopane, which has a variety of lodging choices such as motels, guesthouses, and mountain lodges. When you stay in Zakopane, you can take advantage of the town's lively atmosphere, busy markets, and classic architecture in addition to being close to the Tatra National Park and other attractions. We stayed in Krakow as we found more affordable accomodation options there.

Best Way to Arrive: Podhale can be reached by car, bus, or train. Major Polish cities like Krakow and Warsaw are reachable by train and bus to Zakopane. If you're driving, there are several routes that lead to Zakopane, all of which have good maintenance. The closest airport is Kraków-Balice's John Paul II International Airport, from which you can get to Zakopane by bus or train.

Best Local Mode of Conveyance: Driving is the most practical way to go around Podhale and explore the area. Renting a car makes it simple to visit the Tatra Mountains' hiking paths, picturesque vistas, and remote villages. For visitors without a car, there are also local buses and mini-buses (referred to as "marshrutkas") that link Zakopane with other cities and villages.

Epilogue

So that brings us to the end of our journey across the main attractions of Podhale, the Polish highlands. Please let us know in the comments below if you enjoyed reading this article.

If you wish to read the day-by-day account of our complete 6000 km road run across Eastern Europe during Easter 2019, please visit our article An Easter in Eastern Europe | A 6000 km Road Trip across Poland, Slovakia, Romania, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Austria from the Netherlands. And if you want to read the day-by-day account of our 8000 km road run across Eastern Europe during Summer 2019, please visit our article A Summer in Eastern Europe | An 8000 km Road Trip across Slovenia, Albania, North Macedonia, Kosovo, Bulgaria, Romania, and Slovakia from the Netherlands. Until then, merry traveling and happy shooting!